The city of Ceuta is the southernmost outpost of fortress Europe. Yet it is on mainland Africa - opposite the Strait of Gibraltar. It is one of the last vestiges of Spanish rule in northern Morocco. Madrid insists that it will never relinquish control and has cordoned it off - prompting comparison with other walls of shame. However, there are growing demands for a more constructive approach to the problem of illegal immigration. One man started a grassroots initiative that proved much more successful than walls and fences.